Summer 1984
Kyoto
I would love to write to each of you individually, but my busy schedule here in Kyoto won’t allow it so I’m am resorting to this format which is not my favorite form of communication. You’ll note the letterhead is Glove — which has consumed much of my time and thoughts here in Japan — so I shall dub this bit of news tebukuro no tegami (glove letter).
To start at the beginning … I arrived on June 10 with a week to make final arrangements for a tour group of 21 people and prepare work for a solo exhibition that opened on June 19. It was a frantic time arranging train tickets, bus tours, meals, etc. in Tokyo for the tour and awaiting the release of my work by customs (finally on June 18) so I could finish mounting, framing etc. here in Kyoto.
The show opened on time (just). It was a solo with my good friend Shigeki Fukumoto showing his wax resist dyed panels (like I have now in my house) in an adjoining room at the Gallery Maronie, one of the leading galleries here in Kyoto. The opening was a mob scene with many textile and other artists, press and friends bearing gifts of flowers, cakes, liquor, etc.! I was in attendance for the whole week, noon to 8:00pm (usual in Kyoto) and saw many friends, met many new people. An enjoyable time.
The fruits: sold a few works, 2 magazine articles in color (I haven’t seen them yet), a show in Tokyo (see enclosed), another in Kyoto in October and one after that in Osaka. It all has been quite overwhelming. I must credit my new friend Kiyoji Tsuji, curator at Maronie, for his original faith and continuing support and the help of other friends here in Kyoto as well.
The Arts of Japan Tour was a huge success (June 18 – July 7) if I can judge by the enthusiastic response of the participants. We spent 5 days in Tokyo with day trips to Nikko and Kamakura and the balance here in Kyoto visiting shrines, temples, workshops and savoring all the flavors of the city. I am now planning a repeat for next year.
The tour was followed by a 2-week session in Japanese dyeing techniques. This scheme was birthed on a trip with the Fukumotos from Gatlinburg to Athens in October 1983. We had 12 participants, most of whom were also on the tour, and spent a very busy 12 days of study. We also managed to squeeze Gion Matsuri, one of Kyoto’s BIG 3 festivals into the schedule as well.
After the classes I was free to begin my PROGRAM. In early July I moved into a 4 room (extravagant for one person here) Japanese style apartment in the weaving district of Kyoto called Nishijin or “West Camp” (from the Ronin Wars). I have tatami mats, shoji (washi paper) sliding screens, zabuton (floor cushions), futon (roll-up, put-away bedding) and low tables. Actually, it is a more traditional style of living than any of my Japanese friends seem to favor. My kitchen is simple, but large and more than adequate and I have my own deep (if small) tub for soaking (but not in this hot weather). Anyway, it’s the kind of living that, to me, is much of what Japan is all about and I love it.
My apartment is in a 10 story 200 plus apartment building with many children but 90% of the time it is a quiet as a tomb. I still have not figured it out. Friendly neighbors, near-by shopping and convenient transportation are all part of the ambiance.
I have studio space in facilities of the Juraku Co., producers of high style obi and kimono and sponsors of the dyeing workshop mentioned earlier. The situation is ideal — lots of space for various activities, air conditioned, quiet and a delightful staff that is helpful in many ways, including a new routine of lunch together where I practice my Japanese, much to their amusement. The worst errors I will never know about. The studio is about 10 minutes from the apartment by a bicycle on loan from an Australian friend. I am managing to learn riding skills very quickly by watching the three-year-olds tool around with aplomb and mothers, one child in front, one riding behind her, basket full of shopping and holding an umbrella, all in the rain! I have been from studio to apartment and working there in the evenings since the date for the Tokyo show was set about a month ago. I want to include some new work along with the previous so have been into shibori (stitch and dye resist technique using natural dyes on cotton and silk). Finally, success and I will have 8-10 new pieces ready soon.
The weather has been very HOT since the rainy season ended in July, consequently I have enjoyed working in the a/c studio. I have fans at the apartment which keep me fairly comfortable in the evenings and on weekends. We have just felt the minor effects of Typhoon Ten in Kyoto with a day of rain and a slight cooling. When I return from my show in Tokyo it should be cooler, and I will once again be out exploring the wonders of Kyoto.
I have tentative plans to travel to Tohoku (the north country) in October with a Japanese friend and also some short trips out of Kyoto later in the fall. I find I am quite unhappy if I am away from Kyoto for very long.
I enjoy cooking Japanese food and this year I feel confident enough to do it for Japanese friends. So many wonderous things available in the supa stores and the local markets. I confess to using the former as I have one close by and I can get everything in one stop although the neighborhood “mom and pop” shops and stalls are a lot more fun, but I don’t have the time of a Japanese okusan. The choices either place seem limitless and many items I just admire for their visual impact without the slightest idea of what to do with them. Fruits, vegetables, fish, pickles all come in great variety.
The food is oishii (delicious) and the language is totemo muzukashii (very difficult). But I keep plugging away with my 2 lessons a week with the same teacher I had last year. We are both tolerant of my lack of skill (Mada heta desu). I stumble along in the shops or on the street with my limited vocabulary and grammar. But I don’t hesitate to speak, at least I do try.
I will be returning to Athens (in case there was any doubt) by mid-December to spend the holidays there with Jeanne and Page and Babak and whomever else shows up. I look forward to seeing Athens friends at that time as well. Write when you can it’s always great to hear from you!
Sayoonara,
Glen
P.S. This letter, and many others, is being returned to Athens by “special courier” for economy posting. Sorry for the stamp collectors, but .20 vs $1 or more from here leaves me no choice when friends visit me here in Kyoto.