Glen Kaufman
2013: Martyrs
September 24, 2013
Kyoto
My flight from Atlanta to Seattle was a bit late and we disembarked at a gate the farthest from my next leg to Osaka so I had just a few minutes before boarding began. Near the gate there was a group of men in dark suits accompanying a cleric in long robes and skullcap. But they were soon on the plane and I had forgotten about them. I boarded early and was settling into my Economy Comfort seat when my seatmate arrived. We both got situated and were soon on our way across the Pacific. It turned out my seatmate was one of four members traveling with the Bishop to Japan to explore and honor the Catholic martyrs from the Momoyama Era when many were persecuted and killed by Hideoshi. They were first heading for Nagasaki in Kyushu where the first Portuguese missionaries landed in the 16th century. The plan was to travel there on the afternoon we landed via several rail changes, rent a car and begin their journey. An ambitious project to say the least, as none of the group had been to Japan previously and travel by car is challenging since signage in English is limited in the countryside and smaller cities. But they had made hotel reservations and found the coordinates of those locations and would rely on some sort of GPS to navigate.
The final stop in their 2-week itinerary was going to be Kyoto, so I reviewed their plans for sightseeing, offering many suggestions for the highlights and noting that some of the destinations were not worth the effort. At some point his eminence, the Bishop, stopped by and I was introduced as the expert on Kyoto! “Pick his brain” was his comment as he swept away. I later researched his vestments and discovered he was wearing a Contemporary Roman Choir Cassock with Roman Purple (a kind of magenta) details with heavy gold chain and cross, but was not wearing his Zucchetto (skullcap) at that time. They had chosen the Palace Side Hotel in Kyoto, a good location across from the Imperial Palace and grounds. I hoped that they would take advantage of public transportation while in Kyoto rather than trying to explore the city by rental car.
At some point we exchanged contact information and I discovered I had been talking to Brother Stephen Marie of Saint Konrad’s Friary, which, from the small brochure he gave me, is an ultra-conservative Catholic organization, The Marylike Crusade, with a Seattle address. I tried, with limited success, to find out more about the group and the name of the Bishop. Try as I might I could never find him listed with any Bishops group in WA! The brochure listed 11 points of concern including “War: Wars are a punishment for the sins of mankind”, Five Warnings: If my requests are not granted, Russia will spread her errors throughout the world, provoking wars … against the Church.”, “Sinful Marriages: Many marriages are not good; they do not please Our Lord and are not of God.” to list just a few.
(9/24/2013 I just had a phone call from Brother Stephen with plans to meet them at their hotel here on the 26th! We shall see what transpires from then. I will keep you posted. Happily, 6 people in a car is not a possibility!)
Rendezvous with Jorie
After the encounter with Brother Stephen Marie I disembarked and headed for immigration and passport control. I noted the St. Konrad’s group were far behind in the snaking line to enter Japan and I forgot about them as my turn was approaching. Looking immediately to my right I noticed a woman with a long braid reaching below her tush. This could only be my dear friend of many years here, Jorie Johnson. I crept up with a hug and we both howled with delight! It turns out we were on the same flight but separated by row number and side of the plane. We both passed through immigration and headed to baggage claim, separated but reunited again at customs check. I detoured to exchange money and she headed off to the MK van booth. I finally got there as well and it turned out we were on the same vehicle! She had been back to the US conducting several felt making workshops plus visits to friends and family. It turns out she was visiting a mutual friend who lives near Traverse City, MI not far from my visit with niece, Kris, but not at the same time. She shared tons of photos on her iPad and we had a hilarious time. The driver called for quiet at some point on the PA so we turned down our volume. He came on again complaining about music that was distracting him. Not us this time.
The Whirlwind Days Begin
I had several welcoming phone calls from friends that night of arrival and the next morning. I spend the first day in Kyoto at home and managed to get the 2 large and one small luggage unpacked and stored away. Plans were made for a lunch meeting on Friday that included friends Kiyoji, Keiko owner of GalleryGallery, and her husband Ko-chan. We headed off to our favorite Thai restaurant for their multi-course lunch trays loaded with goodies. I had green and yellow curry plus all the extras. I tagged along with Kiyo, his wife and youngest daughter for some gallery hopping and then I split for Kyoto Art Center to check on the annual fall “Kyoto Experiment”: several weeks of performances that I have enjoyed the previous 2 years. I booked tickets to see three groups for late this month and early October. Next door is the Muse’ de Some’ (dyeing museum, and why French?) for Part One of their annual members’ show. I enjoyed seeing work of friends here but, once again, was disappointed by the sloppy work of some of the younger members. It’s a continuing mystery that I complain about to my nearest and dearest here.
Saturday was super loaded with activities beginning with an alarm at 6:00 am to get organized for “Kobo-san” the first flea market of the month on the 21st at the Toji Temple. I met Kiyo on the bus there and we traveled our special route that puts us at the far rear of the market where the crowds are thinner. I was able to find 3 juban (red under-kimono plus one in red and pink with shibori patterning) at my bargain prices. Kiyo’s specialty is lacquer ware (his MFA major many years ago) and he found a small tray. The weather was hot and we tried to stay in the shade but that was not possible all the time.
There were many religious activities at the temple as this is the time to honor ancestors with cleaning of the family tombs in cemeteries. There is a Buddhist tradition of writing wishes for deceased family members on thin wooden tablets, which are then burned on some occasion. I was shocked to see flames within a sub-temple building with a priest feeding more all the time. I presumed he knew exactly what he was doing!!
Around 9:30 we headed to the café on the temple grounds for ‘morning set’ that never changes there: coffee (iced for both of us), sliced HB egg, thick buttered toast, and a small salad.
Textile Symposium
Keiko of GalleryGallery alerted me last spring of a special event on September 21st, so it was the first fall entry in my date book. Kiyo and I headed to Kyoto Station for the trip to his Seian College of Art and Design where this event was to take place. He, along with other friends, is always concerned with my health and comfort especially since the Spring Fall, so we had time to relax in his office with cold green tea to refresh ourselves. Prior to the festivities we had a tasty lunch at the café on his campus. They always have great food and at a very reasonable price. This time it was curry rice with salad and mint-leaf-enhanced cold water.
The theme of the symposium was textile education with a focus on career/employment potential. Six art universities were represented by a textile professor giving brief power point presentations. Of course, I knew all of these artists/professors except one from Tama U in Tokyo. BUT in addition to those on the program, the crème de la crème of Kyoto (and beyond) five artists were in attendance, except Jorie who thought the event was in Nagoya, a city some hour away by fast train. It was wonderful to see so many friends whom I have known for many years greeting me and asking after my health post Spring Fall! It felt like a welcoming back event for me. All the proceedings were in Nihongo plus the images so with Kiyo’s occasional help I could follow what was going on. The art school in Nagoya did projects in which the students were designing fabrics for production and designed items for a hat company. All very interesting!
There was an exhibit at the College with a large work by each of the professors giving presentations that was exciting to see. Two of the artists made large works in white: One was a wall of organza cut in a way that created a whole wall of white waves, the other a free hanging wall of white translucent silk fiber that had the feeling a captured cloud stuff! I thought how interesting it would be to have a “White Show “ … Snow White revisited.
There was a casual ‘tea party’ after the symposium with delicious cakes and open face sandwiches made by the café, and that followed by a 2nd party at a Chinese restaurant for the participants and other important fiber folks. Great food too!