Glen Kaufman
2012: Countdown
June 3, 2012
Kyoto
There are signs, especially along the Takanogawa, that it is time to leave Kyoto. The grasses along the embankment slopping down to the walking path are turning brown and the late spring mowing has begun. Looking at a great variety of grasses in seed easily confirms the fact that ancient farmers developed our grains from these plants. The pigeons flock to the cleared areas feasting on the fallen seeds. In contrast to the removal of the grasses the top-of-the bank rose garden is thriving. Fifty plus bushes, planted long an area that encompasses at least 2 large lot widths, are an impressive sight with a wide rage of types and colors. Fewer birds are seen in the river, which is at its lowest level that I can recall with many rocky islands now exposed.
Unrelated to the season is a major construction project now in progress. A new pedestrian ramp is being built along with a reconstruction of the previously existing stairway leading from street level to the river path. This is an interesting process to watch, as I now understand how the stonewalls, that are so common here, are constructed. Traditional walls are made from grey granite blocks that are shaped into pyramids with the square base forming the wall surface and the point anchored into the earth with gravel and mortar. Although the stones arrive in the required format, quite a bit of final shaping and adjustment is performed on the site by the stonemasons. Life here is a constant learning process here.
The weather has turned warm and dry. Temps often reach into the 80s in the daytime and we are warned that the beginning of tsuyu (rainy season) is just around the corner. The National Weather Service often predicts the place, date and on occasion the time that will begin!! Once the rains arrive the rivers will be up to a more normal level.
These last few days will be filled with a flurry of activity:
May 30th was an “art trek” day with friend Yasuo to see the tapestry shows that opened in May; two large shows of paintings and a small gallery exhibition of images appropriated from paintings in ancient Buddhist caves along the Silk Road.
June 1st, I attended a performance of traditional Noh Theater outdoors on the grounds of the Heian Shrine — a perfect setting with the elaborate shrine buildings in bright orange and white and tall pine trees as a backdrop. The performance begins in the late afternoon and the atmosphere changes as the sun goes down and further at night when the torches are lit along the stage and the shrine buildings are flood lit. Sumptuous costumes, unique speech, drum and flute music and a chanting chorus all add to the special. Drama at its most dramatic!
June 2nd I joined friend Ko-chan to see the exhibition of Makoto Ofune’s ethereal paintings that depend on changing light source for full impact. The gallery is located in the remote countryside of nearby Shiga Prefecture. We traveled 30 minutes by train, were picked up by the gallery staff and driven through newly planted rice fields, and “pick it yourself” strawberry fields to a fantastic new structure that was gallery, café and home to the owners. It was a perfect setting for Ofune-san’s work and he was there to spend time with us talking about his it. Later I joined Koichi Kimura for ”cocktails at sunset” at Seioji Temple in the Eastern foothills near the huge concrete statue of Reizan Kannon (Goddess of Compassion and Mercy) sponsored by our favorite Common One Bar in Gion and its parent company including one other bar, a Finish restaurant and travel agency. The event, attended by many friends and customers, was a celebration of their 30th anniversary. Getting there was close to a mountain trek with uphill streets and what seemed like several hundred steps up the mountain. The first stop was at the temple gate where we were signed in and found some snacks and champagne and a place to sit. After a couple of glasses of bubbly we climbed many more steps to the temple itself where several more parties were taking place. There we had a panoramic view over the whole city, and I had a fabulous cocktail of Danish akavit, Courvoisier and grapefruit juice. WOW! We had long conversations with a group of young foreigners who were studying tea ceremony in Kyoto and had been recruited to help with serving. (One, a young guy from Birmingham, AL.) There is a much longer and complex story here but not time nor space to include it. This was a 30 year first for me (and Koichi) and I would not have been surprised to see F. Scott Fitzgerald and Zelda there! (“Sunset in Kyoto”, Woody?)
June 3rd, Sunday, was the monthly antique fair at the Toji Temple with its iconic pagoda. Tsuji-san and I usually brose this together, he searching for unique bargains in antique lacquer while I keep an eye out for cheap red juban (under-kimono) for use in some imagined future installation. We brose and then breakfast at the temple café.